As a new autumn winter season descends, it is time to talk all things fashion and what the flavour of the season will be like.
Apparel houses and fashion designers have a new season and customers have a new reason to shop. With autumn winter collections taking center stage, we take a look at what materials, cuts and colours are trending this brand new season.
Autumn winter clothing collections are being launched almost daily and the market is full of new age clothes for the season. From the ramp to the runaway, these clothes are making quite a splash. “Turtleneck Kurtees are essentially T-shirts which are of the length of a kurta that are made from organic jersey cotton material. Turtlenecks are perfect for layering with a long overcoat and churidars to give an ethnic twist to a contemporary winter look. The turtlenecks, due to their breathability are effective during less cold times of the year, such as autumn” says Steven Jhangiani, CEO and Founder, Kurtees. Kids are becoming fashionable too. Poonam Naik, Mompreneur, Peekaboo avers, “we have recently launched our resort collection made with super soft cotton, lead- free dyes. We have unique prints which make for wonderful story sessions before unwinding for the day to build some beautiful memories.” Alma Mater is launching its Unisex Range of Hoodies, Zipper Hoodies and High Neck Zipper SweatShirts in its AW 2019 Collection. Genes Lecoanet Hemant’s Autumn Winter collection, Cinema Of Genes celebrates the Golden era of Hollywood giving this collection a dynamic rhythm of beautifully tailored day wear which dexterously sways towards the evening wear.
A key factor in apparel is sustainability. Chirag Tekchandaney, Co-Founder and Director of Marketing and Human Resources, BOHECO avers, “our collection ‘Dawn of Green’ is made from 100% Hemp fabric. The theory of ‘less is more’ works really well with this range. Colour coordinate sets are going to be the key feature of the collection with button detailing that will enhance the whole look.” A lot of brands are shifting towards sustainable fashion like using organic and vegan materials in order to save the environment. “Comfort clothing in the style of formal dressing is going to be a major role in the coming season. Also, with the use of environmental friendly materials, the fashion industry is taking a step forward towards sustainability as a whole community,” says Pooja Khanna, Founder – Venn.
Fashion designer Arpita Mehta has launched the TrenTradition collection which is a blend of classic culture and nouveau aesthetic. Striking the perfect amalgamation of glamour, beauty, bohemian chic and festive celebration, it is the manifestation of a rich, cultural heritage with a contemporary twist. Vikash Pacheriwal, Co-Founder, Raisin, says, “inspired by the most artistic and charming season of the year autumn, Khizan celebrates the free-spirit of the modern Indian woman by providing them with the most comfortable fashion experience this festive season. Khizan is a modern-day rendition of festive wear that is designed with plush fabrics and contemporary silhouettes against the backdrop of rich seasonal colors. A line of fusion wear with intricate threadwork and little detailing of sequins and beadwork upgrading each outfit.” Ravissant’s Autumn Winter Collection reflects contemporary sensibility with the interplay of silhouettes and colours. Each outfit is bespoke and handcrafted. “The autumn winter collection plays a lot with colours and textures, from a yellow gold, rolling peach, browse khaki, ruby red to ocean blue all colours are used well and are complimented with traditional techniques of embroidery and handwork. Fabrics used are like chiffon, tussar silk, linen silk, Jamdani, while silhouette detailing like stitched pleats, textured anarkalis, embroidered jackets and much more,” says Malini Chawla Saigal – Mompreneur & COO Ravissant. Designer Pooja Shroff adds, “the oversized trend this Autumn-Winter season gives you oodles of styling opportunities and silhouettes to play around with. The Resist-Aur-Dye collection’s many silhouettes can be styled in many different ways and can be taken from day to night. They are also perfect to wear in the upcoming festive season.”
This season is all about dark colours with bold accents and streetwear and sportswear have joined forces. Natural sustainable fabric, lead- free dyes, use of traditional Indian printing techniques in natural colours is the fashion mantra this season, integration of Indian crafts with modern silhouettes breathes new life into masterpieces. Sachin Sahni, CEO, Alma Mater Store says, “purple is going to be the most trending colour in AW2019. Cotton being a natural fabric is perfect for the season as it keeps the body comfortably warm in cold weather. Fleece is going to be the trending fabric in this AW2019 and most of the top global fashion brands will be offering fleece jackets in their collections.” Checks on checks are a big trend this season. Be it coordinated or contrasting checks, the look has been adopted by both international and Indian fashion enthusiasts. Hemant Sagar, CEO & Co-Founder, Genes Lecoanet Hemant says, “like all other trends from the 90s making a comeback, sparkles and sequins are being heavily featured by brands this season to evoke major nostalgia. The Cinema Of Genes collection puts its own spin on these trends by enhancing coordinated checks with the structured yet oversized silhouette as a nod to the power suit. Evening gowns and joggers for women whereas pants and blazers for men feature sequins to add a glamorous touch to the wardrobe for the festive season.” An array of maxi skirts, crop tops, long tunics with bias cut inners skimming the floor along with the shimmering tissue jackets combined with dresses or tunics and palazzos are in this season. “Gold tissue appliqués of big floral patterns on voluminous high waisted skirts are paired with sheer organza tops with sequined floral motifs or capes. The look is resplendent without being opulent,” says Poonam Bhagat, Taika, Designer.
One material that will never stop gaining traction is denim. They are a ubiquitous fashion trend that will not be going out of style for a long time. Kewalchand P Jain, Chairman and Managing Director, Kewal Kiran Clothing Ltd (makers of Killer Jeans) says, “denim-on-denim is also a style that’s been catching up this season. In this collection, we have also added jackets and blazers for men who like to make a statement at work. Organic stitch and smoke wash are two new styles we have added. Another addition to our collection is the stretch fabric for jeans that makes them more comfortable to wear.” “I feel soft silk organza’s, chiffons, silk crepes are a must this autumn winter. A traditional classic silhouette such as lehenga sari and sharara draped in a modern way is what one should opt for this festive season to stand out in the crowd,” opines Arpita Mehta. “Autumn winter collection is all about glamour, shimmer, shine, understated and tone on tone embellishments, fringes, flounces, frills are the seasons must have’s. Deep Jewel toned hues and light pastels ranging from burgundy, navy to old rose, mint green, lilac and ecru form our colour palette. For the couture and diffusion collections organza, tulle and raw silk gives scope for structuring along with new age interlinings and wiring. These aim to create an inherent style and elegance. Asymmetrical drapes help to create a landscape of floating three- dimensional forms,” says designer Tasneem Merchant.
Fall/Winter 2019 will see hints of lace and sheer fabrics mixed in with solids which give a strong yet feminine vibe. The element of sheer could be around the neckline and shoulders or the back of a dress or the sleeves; the impact of some sheer in your outfit is much more elegant than a deep plunging neck or a tight bandage dress. “We will see a marriage of stretchy, comfortable performance fabrics made in winter wear styles and colors. Tee shirts and sweatshirts in pop colours like neon pink, cobalt blue, scarlet red paired with black tights and leggings or color blocked track pants will be the style statement we see on high streets and celebrities,” says Divya Goenka, Founder, The Pink Moon. Ritika Taneja, Head Category Management at ShopClues adds, “we are definitely going to see light wool and corduroy in AW’19 however the most popular materials are going to be Faux Leather, Fleece, Lycra, and Nylon.” This will mostly be popular among merchandise including but not limited to shirts, jackets, overcoats, cardigans and track pants. Tabby Bhatia, Founder, Bareskin adds, “I believe that leather jackets in winter have always been the preferred choice by everyone. Every season we see the slight change in patterns to bring more variety and upgradation in it. There are few materials that remain the same on the priority list in winters like fur, leather, woolen etc. Since 90s, the style of high-neck top is still on the high trend, it has been just enhanced with material and colors. Sometimes, play with colours or patterns to make a huge trend of the season. Pairing sweaters with oversized coats and high ankle boots will be the highlight of the season to get the dapper look.”
This story first appeared in Apparel Magazine’s Sep 2019 issue here: