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Travel Guide to Varanasi

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Varanasi is a city like no other and being one of the oldest places on earth it has an interesting mix of spirituality, food, culture and heritage.

I have visited Varanasi a few times to know that the vibe here is like no other. Writing this 72 hour guide was a good experience as I could relive memories of my trips to this spiritual city.

While the Kashi Vishwanath temple is quite my favourite, I also visited the Kashi Vishalakshi temple this time. Was also lucky to visit the Kamakhya temple – rumoured to be as old as the Ramayana times.

Kachori Subzi is the quintessential breakfast of Varanasi
Kachori Subzi is the quintessential breakfast of Varanasi

This trip also helped me get an insight into the food of the city and how street food here is almost an intangible heritage of the city. And of course the Ganga – one of the most beautiful rivers -sacred and serene and rightfully serenaded every morning and evening with an aarti.

The tilted temple on the Varanasi Ghats
The tilted temple on the Varanasi Ghats

My most recent trip to Varanasi was on invitation by Dalmia House. Located close to the ghats in the heart of the city, the Dalmia Bhavan is estimated to have been built between 1835 and 1845 by the illustrious Goswami family of Serampore. Its architecture is a harmonious blend of Indo-Saracenic, and Neoclassical elements and it is said that its hallowed halls have seen the likes of Annie Besant, Mahatma Gandhi, Sarojini Naidu, Rabindranath Tagore and Harivansh Rai Bachchan, visit the place.

The architectural details of Dalmia Bhavan
The architectural details of Dalmia Bhavan

It was in the late 1960s, the late Laxmi Niwas acquired the enchanting garden house owned by Raja Goswami and today this is owned by his son Kunal Dalmia. The home is now renamed as SABO in honor of his mother, Savitri Devi Dalmia.

The furniture of Dalmia House
The furniture of Dalmia House

The Late LN Dalmia, has gifted a remarkable hostel to Banaras Hindu University (BHU), accommodating a staggering 275 students in memory of his father, Duli Chandji Dalmia. In order to empower women in the field of science, a science block exclusively for women was donated to BHU. This block, aptly named the “Savitri Devi Dalmia Vigyan Bhavan,” pays tribute to a woman who epitomized strength and resilience.

The single column pillars at Dalmia House are made from Chunar Stones
The single column pillars at Dalmia House are made from Chunar Stones

Kunal Dalmia as part of his family’s business empire, KAHM Industries is now working towards transforming Dalmia Bhavan into a luxurious boutique hotel, marking a pioneering endeavor in the heart of Varanasi. This ambitious venture, the first of its kind in the city, will breathe new life into the historic walls that have borne witness to the passage of time and the evolution of an extraordinary dynasty.

Some of the architectural details of Dalmia Bhavan
Some of the architectural details of Dalmia Bhavan

The journey of Dalmia Bhavan, now SABO, is a testament to the enduring legacy of a family deeply rooted in the soul of Varanasi, and to a city that embraces its past while embracing the possibilities of tomorrow.

A lone Sadhu on the Ghats of Varanasi
A lone Sadhu on the Ghats of Varanasi
The alleys or gallis of Varansi's ghats are a riot of colour
The alleys or gallis of Varansi’s ghats are a riot of colour

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