Excelsa is one of the least explored coffee species in India, gaining renewed attention for its distinctive fruity flavour, naturally lower caffeine content and potential within the specialty coffee movement. Historically classified as Coffea liberica var. dewevrei, it is increasingly recognised as a distinct species, although its taxonomy continues to evolve.
In India, Excelsa has existed for decades, particularly in Karnataka’s coffee-growing regions. Often called Mara Kaapi, or tree coffee, in Kannada, it was traditionally planted along estate boundaries as a natural fence and windbreaker. Its resilience, relatively low water and fertiliser requirements, and ability to survive with minimal intervention have led to growing interest in its potential under changing climatic conditions.
Unlike Arabica and Robusta, Excelsa grows into a tall tree, sometimes reaching 15 metres, making pruning, maintenance and harvesting difficult. Workers often need to climb the trees to pick the cherries. Furthermore, its low yields and challenging cultivation practices make commercial-scale production difficult. Excelsa accounts for less than one per cent of global coffee production, with limited availability continuing to constrain its growth.
Its appeal lies primarily in its unusual flavour profile. Depending on processing and roasting, Excelsa can offer tropical fruit, jackfruit, lychee, ripe banana, berries, wine-like notes and dried-fruit sweetness. Its generally lower caffeine content also attracts consumers seeking an alternative to conventional coffees. However, its intense fruitiness may not appeal to everyone.
Experimental processing is helping reveal its potential. One approach involves an 84-hour yeast-inoculated natural fermentation in oxygen-restricted tanks, followed by slow drying on raised beds. Careful roasting is essential because Excelsa’s characteristics can be easily overwhelmed by excessive roast development. It can be enjoyed as a single-origin coffee or incorporated into blends, where it contributes sweetness, tropical fruit notes and aromatic complexity.
Excelsa is also versatile in brewing. Pour-over methods highlight its clarity and fruitiness, while flash-chilled pour-over produces a bright, refreshing cup. AeroPress, immersion brewing and longer-ratio espresso preparations offer other possibilities. Cold brew creates a smoother profile but may soften some of its acidity and complexity.
Indian specialty coffee roasters and cafés are beginning to experiment with limited Excelsa lots. Nevertheless, growing consumer curiosity must translate into sustained demand to justify increased cultivation. Challenges such as harvesting costs, low yields and limited production remain significant.
Excelsa’s future will depend on balancing its agricultural potential with commercial viability, while ensuring that its distinctive character is preserved through careful processing, roasting and brewing.
Read the full story that first appeared in Robb Report India here:
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