Germany is a country that is associated with automobiles thanks to the presence of auto majors like Porche, BMW and Mercedes. A lesser known aspect of this country is its importance to traditions. Exploring the traditions and customs of a place can certainly give you many insights into the local culture in a unique manner.
Fasnet is a pre-Lenten carnival in Alemannic folklore and is practiced in Switzerland, southern Germany, Alsace and western Austria. The experience is not just colourful thanks to the ornate costumes of the participants and onlookers but also gives a send of the strong social bonding of the denizens here. Basically meant to be the time to feast before fasting (or the Lent period), fasnet is the time to let your guard down and party.
Little wonder then the whole town gets together at the centre even the mayor’s office wears a colourful hue. Lasting anywhere from four days to a week each of the towns in Southern Germany has their own take on the fasnet and celebrates the same in its own unique manner. The best part is that spectators are also dressed at their quirky best and you can join in the fun by using the traditional greeting of the town. You can even get rewarded with pretzel (a unique knotted bread), candies, chocolates and more so dive in!
Schramberg
The restaurant at Schramberg was buzzing with the locals who had gathered for a drink and some great food. And make no mistake fasnet is taken very seriously here. All stores are closed and the whole town is present to witness the parade. The restaurants of course do roaring business and are open through the night. Carnival time is all about food, dance and merry making and the locals do this with full gusto. Even little children attend the carnival in their prams fully covered to brave the severe chill.
Rottweil
Associated with the famed Rottweil dog, strangely there is not even one to be found here simply because these dogs are now priced upto 40000 Euros! But I met a pair of rather nattily dressed pugs ready to celebrate the Fasnet in Rottweil. Luckily our local hosts at Rottweil’s town hall had seats at the VIP tribune booked for us which helped because there was not an inch of space that was not occupied by the over enthusiastic local crowd. Braving the snowfall, I stood getting rather frozen to enjoy the proceedings. After the parade I sampled a traditional ‘Linsenessen’, a lentil meal in Rottweil’s new town hall. The town’s Stadtmuseum (town museum) and churches – Heilig-Kreuz-Münster (Minster of the Holy Cross) and Dominikanerkirche (Dominican church) are some other must see places in Rottweil.
Villingen Schwenningen
The Morbili’s wooden mask is that of a friendly smiling, sometimes toothless old lady. She is dressed accordingly and wears a beautiful lace fitted bonnet and tosses candy, sausages, and other assorted gifts to the crowds – as long as she likes you! The Wuescht have horrendous costumes stuffed with straw which they might actually stuff into your jacket if they are in a playful mood. They have a wooden board on which a ragged doll is fastened – with some highly colourful references! I stayed at the Mercure, Villingen-Schwenningen. They have a fantastic hotel restaurant, with large windows facing the town square. In addition, the museum-cafe right next door is certainly not to be missed.
Sigmaringen
This town also has the Castle that was the princely castle and seat of government for the Princes of Hohenzollern-Sigmaringen. We first went to the mayor Thomas Schärer’s office where a feast of pretzels and drinks were already waiting for us. The mayor himself was decked in carnival finery and cut a smart figure in his costume.
Elzach
Meeting with Ulrike Schneider, the managing director of Zweitälerland Tourismus and welcome by Elzach’s major, Roland Tibi, started our journey at Elzach. Schuttig the main figure here is male, and regardless of gender, and must follow strict guidelines. The uniform, for example, consists of black leather shoes, pants, a jacket covered with overlapping rows of red felt retangles, white linen gloves, tie and a grotesque hand-carved mask of linden wood which covers the whole face. The Fasnet which begins on Fat Thursday lasts until Ash Wednesday. I didn’t stay in Elzach – but in the lovely Hotel Silberkönig which is not too far away (20-30 mins by road).
Read the full story that first appeared in Khaleej Times dated Feb 14, 2025 here and here:
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